Thursday, March 24, 2016

Don't let it slip

It is so bad that for last few days I am slipping on my self commitment of daily blog post. It is not lack of material or motivation, neither it is lack of time. I feel it is because of poor planning of the day. So now onward, I shall plan things in more realistic and execution oriented manner.

I was in Agra for Holi. Its good to visit the hometown on these festivals. We can reconnect with friends, family members and relive our old times. Agra is a strange city. As such our whole country is strange. As with rest of India, here also I witness lot of contradictions in day to day life. But even by those standards, Agra occupy a unique position in terms of history, politics, evolution, society and even economics.

Historically, Agra was the capital city of one of greatest emperor of Indian history, King Akbar. The city is replete with historical monuments of grandeur, art and architecture. Every kilometer or two, one can find some abandoned archeological sites. Most of the sites, the well maintained and the abandoned one are graveyard or tomb stones of moughal family members, kings and princes. However, city witnessed a quick downfall in later years. I sometimes wonder why Agra was geographically not considered a better option for capital city than Delhi. It is more central to Indian territory in comparison to Delhi which is somewhat more northish in nature. However despite being so central to history of India, Agra do not find much reference in the independence moment. Though the city is visited by almost every political dignitary but it is difficult to find mention of Agra in the books of modern and post modern history except for a futile and over-hyped Musharaff Bajpayee meeting.

From political perspective, Agra occupies a contradictory position. For last 30 years, the center and state governments have belonged to different parties. Agra is considered a bastion of BJP for national election. But at state level, it witnesses a fragmented verdict. Mostly it is BSP and BJP division despite its proximity with Saifai, the den of Mulayam Singh. Therefore while BSP is indifferent to Agra, SP is abhorrent to the city. BJP which finds considerable support has come to power only in the recent years but it also lacks intention to make things work. Possibly because either they are too confident about the city or they are too skeptical to put money and energy into something which is a divided house for state level election. As a direct consequence, the city has not seen any development in last two decades. Some superficial touch here and there does not count. One may be surprised to know that a city with urban population of nearly 2 million does not have a single mall.

From Evolutionary angle, a one time capital city which is home to big monuments like wonderful Tajmahal, Octogonal tomb of Etmad-ud-Daula, the formidable Red Fort, the gold mine of architecture, history, Indian culture and my favorite The fort of Fatehpur Sikri, Domeless tomb of King Akbar and a paradise for botany student Dayalbagh ( which is in the construction mode since the eternity) has now slipped to tier two category city. Roads are same as they were when I left the town fifteen years back. We drink the shit of Delhi which come to us via biggest sewer of the country named the Yamuna. On paper, it is supposed to get 24*7 electricity but I see frequent cuts whenever I am home. Of late with privatization, electric supply have improved but that comes with some cost. In fact my relatives in nearby villages enjoy full Air conditioned life thriving on free electricity provided to them while we have to think twice before switching the AC on.

The campaigns like "Clean Agra Green Agra" have failed in making city clean or green. Only a fixed stretch of VIP visit is relatively clean but otherwise it is in dirty state, thanks to dysfunctional municipal corporation. So when India is positioning itself in the world as champion of love, peace and non violence, the city host to one of the biggest symbol of its soft power Tajmahal is stuttering to retain its quality of life.

In the social domain, most population is Hindu but given the moughal history, a significant proportion is of Muslims as well. Most of the junta belongs to labour class. On one hand City hosts sarvdharm Mela where people of all the faiths come together to share ideas and improve harmony in the society. But in contrast, It us the root of ghar wapasi type campaign.

Economically, no malls, no international airport, poorly maintained amenities but simultaneous we have community of rich and super richs. Sadly the economic gains generated from tour, travel and petha industry have not fully percolated to the entire city.Tourist come and leave from the city without mingling with people around and without seeing day to day life. Thanks to tourism industry of Delhi and Jaipur.

There are many other peculiarities of the city. Will go in those details some other time. But despite all the political and economic failings, city has got some soul. It has a character of its own. The language (khadi boli), culture of paan masal, jalebi-bedai breakfast, sweetness of petha, close community connections, shoe industry, pagalkhana ( mental asylum) and the central jail gives a different taste to its air. Narrow lanes, crowded markets, hundreds of year old buildings, river Yamuna and the Brij culture of lord Krishna is admirable.

I wish this character is maintained with all the developments which time will bring to us. Good bye Agra. See you again. :)










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